Sunday, July 26, 2009

娘惹珠子鞋 Nyonya Beaded Shoe

周末得空,到鸡场街寻访娘惹珠子鞋。本以为原本就是鸡场街特色的珠子鞋应该不难找,但探了半条街都没在任何商店看见它的影子。沿路问了一些商家,发现许多人都没有听过珠子鞋;有些更加糟糕,竟然向我推销他们售卖的闪亮钉子鞋。

Went to Jonker street to search for Nyonya's beaded shoe on a free weekend. Thought that it would be an easy task as Jonker street is famous of Nyonya products but gosh, we can't even find any shop that display something similar after going through half of the street. Tried to ask around and realized that not many people that actually know what is Nyonya beaded shoe, some of the shopkeepers even tried to promoted their shoe products that pinned with shining decoration and claimed that those are beaded shoe. @.@



多亏随行的熊猫努力地一直向店家打听,终于在靠近鸡场街街头的地方发现珠子鞋的踪迹。店家是一位中年妇女,冷着脸招待我们,可能是认为我们并不是她的客户吧?当我要求为珠子鞋拍几张照片时,她想都没想就一口拒绝了。我尝试解释说是受美国朋友所托要帮她买的,但她还是坚决不让步。在没有办法的情况下就只好乘老板娘忙着招待其他客人时偷偷拍了几张,可惜效果并不是很好。

After countless enquires, Panda manage to locate a shop that sell the original beaded shoe near the end of Jonker Street. The shop owner is a very cool lady that hardly smile at her customer. Maybe we don't really looks like her potential customer ? Haha. The worse part is that she directly rejected my request to snap a few photos of her shoe even I had been trying very hard to explain that it is for my oversea friend that wish to own one of these shoe. So, I decided to snap some photo quietly while she was busy entertaining other customer. Unfaithfully, the photos doesn't turn out good.



凭着记忆,我们兜到走向青云亭的庙街去。我记得以前经过那排低矮的旧店屋时曾经看见一间售卖珠子鞋的店铺。果然!前店之过,后铺之师,我们停在林先生的珠子鞋铺外面,乘林先生在专心缝珠子时马上蹲在店铺外面把他陈列在玻璃柜里的货品一一拍下来。可惜为了尊重林先生的设计,不能将每一双鞋的特写放上来与大家分享。

After that, we tried our luck at Temple Street as I remembered that i seen the beaded shoe in one of the old tiny shop lot along the street. Bingo ! My memory serves me well =) Based on the previous learning, I quickly snap the photos of beaded shoes displayed in the cupboard at the front desk when realized that Mr Lim, the owner was focusing on his art work in the shop. But I'm sorry to say that I can't share it here as I need to respect Mr Lim's design and help him prevent others from copying his design.



当一开始和林先生交谈的时候他还显得小心翼翼,尤其是被问到可不可以照他的珠子鞋时,他也很客气地拒绝了。他表示那些鞋子是全都是由他亲自设计的,没有一双的颜色和花纹设计是重复的;为了保护他自己的设计,他不能让其他人把那些设计带出去,免得市场上全都是他的设计。他说得对,没有一个客户希望在付了很多钱之后发现自己和另外一个人撞鞋。所以,即使缝同样的珠子图案,他会坚持搭配不同颜色的珠子和背景。如果客户有特定喜好的颜色,他也可以依照客户要的颜色去缝制鞋子的图案。

At first, Mr Lim was quite conservative when we start the conversation. He rejected us politely when we requested to take photos on his beaded shoes, saying that all the shoes are his design and every bead pattern is unique. He needs to ensure that his designs are protected and different from other competitors so that his customer can own a uniquely designed beaded shoe. He is right that "No one wish to see the same design on others' feet after paying so much for their shoe", and he laugh. Then he show us 3 pair of shoes that shared the same pattern but different color combination and background design, saying that he can custom made the shoe based on customer's choice of color and pattern design.



说到价钱,我就随口问了问架子上那些珠子鞋的价钱。不问还好,一问就吓了一跳。最便宜的要一百多块,珠子图案档次比较高,比较复杂的则是要七百块,那三款以花为主题的珠子鞋就值那个价钱。当林先生看见熊猫被他的价钱吓到吐舌头的时候很得意地笑了一下,然后从另外一个架子上拿下一双闪闪发亮的珠子鞋说:这双呀,它的价钱是一千六百块!

When inquired about the shoe price, Mr Lim shocked us with "A simple design will cost around RM100+ and the price increase with the complexity of the pattern design". "These flower design will cost RM700 a pair, you can shoot them and show it to your friend as reference", he pick the 3 pairs of shoe that he show us just now from display rack and place on the table for me. Seeing that Panda was stunned with the price, he smile and took another pair of shining shoe from the rack behind his desk and said : "This one, RM1600!"



被问到为何这双珠子鞋的价钱那么贵时,林先生把鞋子拿起来晃了几下说:因为它是用钻石珠子缝的呀~ 原来钻石珠子是在德国生产的,每一颗珠子上都有一个平面切口,价钱肯定比其他普通日本制造的圆珠子贵。为了把总共一万五千颗珠子平面缝织在鞋面以达到闪闪发亮的效果,每一颗珠子都需要花眼力和精神去转到对的方向才可以缝上去。再加上那鞋面的每个图案都是独特的,总共用了五十种不同颜色的珠子,所以鞋子的价钱当然也加倍了。

Mr Lim rotate the RM1600 shoe slowly under the light and told us that it was made from diamond cut beads , where part of the bead has a flat surface cut that able to reflect light. The price of these Germany made beads is double compared to normal beads built in Japan. He needs to spend a lot of effort to match the bead colors and rotate these beads before sewing them on to the cloth so that the flat part is facing upward and able to reflect lights. Besides, every small animal pattern on each mosaic is unique and symmetrical on the other shoe. It's amazing to know that the design consumed 50 different color and 15,000 beads on a pair of shoe !

另外,林先生还提到要完成一双珠子鞋的时间是两个月,即使客户赶着要用也没办法缩短缝制的时间。如果客户看上现有的珠子图案但鞋子的型号不适合,他也可以让客户自由搭配喜欢的鞋子颜色,然后再从新做一双新的鞋子给客户。听他说,有些新加坡的客户也是这样通过电话向他订制珠子鞋的。只要将鞋子的型号、鞋跟的高度、颜色和珠子图案的要求沟通清楚就行了。

Mr Lim told us that he will need 2 months to complete a pair of beaded shoe and there is no way if the customer wish to expedite the process. But, if there is an existing design where the shoe can't fit customer's size, he is able to make a new pair for her. "Some of my Singaporean customers just call me up and order their shoes through phone", he says. "What I need to know is the size, how tall is the heel, color and pattern of choice before I can start my work."

听着听着,我突发奇想地问林先生是否有想过要将珠子鞋生意通过网际网络扩展到世界其他地方去?他无奈地表示以他与妻子的能力是不可能将生意搞大的,不然他将没办法应付那么多的同时涌来的订单。那是因为他不敢将工作承包出去让其他家庭主妇帮忙,担心会影响珠子图案的质地和自己呕心沥血的设计会被其他同行抄袭。但说到最后,让他最感叹的还是珠子鞋手艺即将失传的局面。他表示虽然自己的女儿已经学会缝制珠子鞋,但她在这方面的兴趣却不浓厚。而且,缝制珠子鞋需要的并不只是技巧,更重要的是教不来的热忱和创意。

Listening to that, I caught an idea and ask if Mr Lim ever think of expanding his business to the world through internet ? He was regretted that it is just a dream for him as he will not able to support the orders that flood in at once and as he only has his wife to help him in the business. He is not willing to "sub-con" the work out as it will just open the door wide for others to copy his design. Actually what worried Mr Lim the most is fact that technique of making Nyonya beaded shoe will discontinue very soon. Although his daughter had learned up the skills but she doesn't show great interest in continuing his business. Besides, I do agreed with him that "Making beaded shoes is not only about skills, the passion and creativity play a more important role to make it great."



临离开前特地把林先生与珠子鞋的故事拍下来与大家分享。还有,要谢谢熊猫的陪伴,不然我都没办法问到那么多的资料呢!

On our way out, we noticed that Mr Lim and his Nyonya Beaded Shoe was on newspaper too. Thanks to Panda for her great companion and don't think I will able to gain so many useful info without her on this search.

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